개항이후 대한제국 성립 이전 외교관 복식 연구

Abstract

The purpose of this is contemplating the costume of the diplomats between the port-opening and the establishment of the Korean Empire. Western costume system included wearing daeryebok(大禮服; court-costume) when delivering credentials to rulers with soryebok(小禮服;formal dress) in other banquets. Not having its proper costume with diplomatic manner after the port-opening. Joseon gradually reformed its system. The costume of the diplomats at this time can be summarized as follows.

The first stage was the period before the Gabshin-reformation 甲申衣制改革 of 1884. The mission to Japan wore hongdanryung(紅團領) at audiences with rulers with pyeonbok(便服) in daily lives, while the Corean embassy to America seemed to wear plum-colored.

The second one was the period after the Gabshin-reformation, when the diplomats wore heukdanryung(黑團領) as public, and chaksueui(窄袖衣) with jeonbok(戰服) as private.

The last stage refers to the period after the Gaboh-reformation 甲午衣制改革 of 1894 followed by the Eulmi-reformation 乙未衣制改革 of 1895. The diplomats wore wide-sleeve heukdanryung with samo(紗帽) as daeryebok, narrow-sleeve heukdanryung with samo as soryebok, and chaksueui with jeonbok as tongsangbok(通常服;business suit) with examples of Min, Young-Hwan閔泳煥 and Lee Bum-Jin李範晉.

Joseon maintained traditional-style daeryebok system until the establishment of the Korean Empire before they arranged the western-style court costume in April 1900. This system can be evaluated in that Joseon reacted to the period characterized by western dominance, with traditional systems merged into modern forms.